Legend Of Homemade Movement Explore The Classic Movement In Bulgari History

Those who want to wear a crown must bear their weight. If you want to wear a crown, you must bear its weight. The noble temperament crown on the top of Bulgari is like a treasure, but not every brand is qualified to wear this crown. The same crown is not Every brand can stand up to its halo, and only Bulgari’s unique Italian style can match such a noble and elegant style. For more than 130 years, Bulgari’s extraordinary creativity and romantic spirit full of dreams. Behind every glorious history and classic masterpiece, the brand’s peak technology and endless exploration spirit are behind it.

  A good watch is not only beautiful in appearance, it is more important to have a powerful movement. A brand with independent watchmaking capabilities should have the ability to make its own movement. For Bulgari, the production and creation of the movement is even more important. Whether it is an ultra-thin manual-winding movement or an automatic-winding movement, the strict requirements always run through the entire production process to achieve the highest standards of production requirements. The integrated production of machines has professional processes and division of labor. Manual design, polishing, and assembly have rich experience and technology. For the movement, the design of Bulgari is better and better, with a unique style.

  From BVL303 to BVL168

  Bulgari’s road to self-made watches has actually come step by step. From the case, dial to the strap, the entire watch is pursuing self-made, to the launch of the homemade movement, Bulgari seems to have expected everything well. development of. In 2008, the brand launched the Calibro303 automatic movement, which is exactly the same as the FP1185 movement. The thickness of this movement is 5.5 mm, the diameter is 26.2 mm, 303 parts have 37 gems, and the frequency of vibrations is 21,600 times per hour. After adjustment by Bulgari, the 40-hour power reserve is 5 hours less than the basic movement In other respects, it still has the stability of the basic movement. Therefore, Bulgari also gave this movement the name BVL303 with 303 parts.

  This Bvlgari Diagono chronograph watch, numbered DG42C3SLDCH, comes from the ancient Greek ‘agon’, meaning ‘competition, competition’, which coincides with the concept of chronograph. The 42mm diameter case is engraved with the BVLGARI · BVLGARI logo. Through the mirror, the elegant design of the dial is self-evident. The dial of each Diagono watch is created by the BVLGARI movement factory. The entire production process takes up to 4 months. The dial has a long history. The three small dials are closely connected to each other, highlighting its superior performance and accuracy, and highlighting the wearer’s taste. In terms of power, it is equipped with the brand-made BVL303 mechanical chronograph movement, equipped with an automatic winding system and a date display function. The movement is decorated with pearl dot polishing patterns and Geneva ripples, and after chamfering, it is still beautiful in workmanship. of.

  In 2010, the brand launched a new self-made movement BVL168, this movement is different from 303, in the overall sense, 168 can be regarded as the brand’s first truly self-made movement. Since its introduction, BVL168 has undergone a series of improvements.

  BVL191 movement:

  BVL191 was launched in 2013 and is a bit better than 168. Bvlgari Solotempo self-winding movement with 26 gems, 42 hours power reserve, and a vibration frequency of 28,800 (4Hz) per hour. The winding efficiency is quite satisfactory. This movement also has a stop-seconds function. When you pull out the crown, the second hand will stop running, which can effectively reduce gear wear. In terms of details, the movement also has a very good aesthetics. The splint is decorated with Geneva patterns, the bevel and corners of the bridge are polished, the gears are frosted, the chamfered grooves and polished screws.

  BulgariRoma was born in 1975. In 1977, the first Bulgari · Bulgari watch was officially launched and won huge market response. To this day, Bulgari Bulgari reinterprets the powerful vitality of this series of watches. All models of the new BulgariBulgari are equipped with the high-performance Bv191 Solotempo self-winding movement. The classic 39 mm case is engraved with the words ‘BulgariBulgari’ on the bezel with a highly recognizable quaint font, which has become a design symbol recognizable by the world. The cylindrical design is also a classic Bulgari design style. Through the mirror, the dial is equipped with a central second hand and a calendar window. The hours and minutes hands are hollowed out and the simple digital scales make the watch’s classic style.

  To meet the needs of different people, the watch has a variety of styles, the rose gold case with a black alligator leather strap, the stainless steel case with a brown alligator leather strap or the same material bracelet, gold and stainless steel two-color case Bracelet of the same material, with a choice of all-gold watches.

  Slim hand-wound Finissimo mechanical movement

  The idea and design of the ultra-thin manual winding Finissimo movement are based on the future development potential. The thickness of the movement is only 1.95 mm, making it the thinnest movement ever. The Finissimo tourbillon movement provides the superb torque that can be provided by various new complex mechanisms in the future, while maintaining the slimness of the watch body.

  On the one hand, from the appearance point of view, the men’s watch OCTO series has a very eye-catching brand recognition. The case is neither round nor square. Instead, the two geometric shapes are perfectly combined to create the most recognizable octagonal design, constructing the magnificent and geometrical aesthetics of a round place. The case consists of 110 sections. Each part is carefully crafted by hand, and polished and satin-finished, which perfectly matches the overall style of the watch.

  On the other hand, the most amazing thing is that this watch with a thickness of only 5 mm is also equipped with a tourbillon movement that is only 1.95 mm thick. This movement consists of 249 parts, chamfered and decorated with Geneva ripples. There are two splints: one for the minute wheel and one for the tourbillon frame wheel train that makes one revolution per minute. In order to ensure its ultra-thin structure, the movement does not use a speed-adjusting component group, but directly adjusts the timing on the balance wheel, while using additional ball bearings and a tourbillon frame with shell rolling bearings to support Its movement. Through the back-through mirror, facing the movement of the movement, this is definitely a mechanical visual feast.

  BVL128 manual winding mechanical movement

  OCTOFINISSIMO uses a classic octagonal case, black polished lacquered dial, embossed hour markers, and a small eccentric second hand at 7:30.

  This watch’s movement is arranged in a 40mm platinum case with a thickness of only 5mm. It exudes a low-key and simple light, and it is also perfectly matched with a polished black lacquered dial, making OctoFinissimo one of the classic elegant watches. Equipped with the brand’s homemade BVL128 manual-winding mechanical movement, small seconds, power reserve display on the back-Finissimo movement is decorated with Geneva ripples and pearl dots, and is chamfered.

Summary: For the research and development and transformation of the movement, every watch brand has been continuously researching and exploring, and Bulgari has never been relentless in this regard. With the shock of the watch industry, Bulgari has confirmed the brand’s popularity and presence in its own unique way. Many people may not know that Bulgari is also a watchmaker in the past, but now, with the continuous improvement and innovation of the brand in the field of watches, more and more people are paying attention to Bulgari watches and admiring Bulgari. Li’s design and attention to Bulgari’s watchmaking technology is why the brand is worthy of our respect, because it can bring new discoveries to the world. (Picture / text watch home Li Shuai)

Godcraft Watch And Crystal Super Perfect Combination

At the Basel Watch Fair this year, there are many manifestations of ultra-unique craftsmanship applied to watches. Many materials and productions you can never imagine have been used in the production of watches. It is one of them, and the use of crystals on watches is by no means a simple inlay. The super complicated and magical production process will really make you amazing.

 Create crystal stems with millefiori patterns. These stems look like malt candy bars. Multi-layer crystals are added to the enamel to make the colors appear. In some cases, they are combined into richer patterns.

制作 To make the Arceau Millefiori Thousand Flowers, Hermès combined watchmaking with crystal craftsmanship to make this extraordinary 邂逅. The unique Arceau Millefiori watch and pocket watch with crystal dial and cover are made from the millefiori of the Cristalleries royales de Saint-Louis in the nineteenth century. The mechanical movement of the Hermès watch factory in Switzerland reflects each other.

 The formed mandrels were cut into small sections of 10 mm each, which were erected by a crystal craftsman who specialized in making thousands of flowers and placed in an iron bowl to form a flower bed pattern.

的 Everything in Saint-Louis starts with a crystal furnace called a pot furnace. A crystal craftsman puts a metal torch into these furnaces, takes out a certain color of crystal or enamel, and manually rotates the molten crystal or enamel to form a homogeneous substance without bubbles, called a gob. . The crystal masters began to work patiently and staged a silent ballet that only they could understand. The metal torch is passed in the hands of each person, bred between the breaths, and walks between the workshop and the workshop until the monochrome crystal is cooled and formed into a crystal stem that creates a ‘millefiori (千 花)’ pattern. (Millefiori from Italy Combined words mean ‘thousand flowers’).

 The first craftsman pressed the transparent fused crystal clinging to the top of the torch, pressed the molten crystal on the Qianhua iron bowl at a precise position, and covered the transparent crystal with the Qianhua pattern.

芯 These stems look like malt candy bars, with multiple layers of crystals on the enamel to make the color tone appear. In some cases, they are combined into richer patterns. No matter how the color or design changes, the process is the same.

The crystal craftsman obtains the molten crystal or enamel. The second craftsman holds another torch and attaches it to the other end of the molten crystal. Before the crystal or enamel cools, he quickly removes the torch and pulls out a few meters of fine crystal stem Its diameter is only a few millimeters and then cut into sections. The formed mandrels were cut into small sections of 10 mm each, and crystal craftsmen who specialized in making thousands of flowers stood upright in an iron bowl to form a flower bed pattern.

 The final finishing step of the paperweight is that the crystal craftsman specially shaped the shape of a gourd neck to cut the required thousand flower crystal parts.

 Qianhua crystal only presents the full picture of the pattern at the final cutting stage, and the vivid and colorful flower bed, its unique beauty will become one of the dials or covers of Arceau watches or pocket watches. Photos: Alfredo Piola.

When the crystal craftsman prepared the ‘semi-circle-cap’ or ’round-cap’ -shaped molten crystal clinging to the metal torch, another colleague laid the iron bowl with the thousands of flowers on the table. The first craftsman pressed the transparent fused crystal clinging to the top of the torch, pressed the molten crystal on the Qianhua iron bowl at a precise position, and covered the transparent crystal with the Qianhua pattern. The blowpipe is then moved back to the furnace and reheated to shape the softened Kaleidoscope with a wooden long-handled tool, sometimes even paper to process it into the desired shape. The final finishing step of the paper town is that the crystal craftsmen specially shaped the shape of a gourd neck to cut the required thousand flower crystal parts.

Qianhua crystal only presents the full picture of the pattern at the final cutting stage. The colorful flower bed is unique and will become one of the dials or covers of Arceau watches or pocket watches.