Understanding The Identity Of The Watch ‘burned’

Just like hotels have internationally accepted classification systems, wristwatches also pass a variety of certification systems to carry out a strict classification system. Among them, the authoritative ones include the Geneva Seal, the Observatory certification, and the FQFC certification system. These seals The letters or patterns on the watch allow people to understand clearly the advantages and disadvantages of mechanical watches and the accuracy of the movement. It is the best guide and reference tool for watch fans to appreciate the watch. Caliber with Geneva mark certification
Watch classification system
日内瓦 Of all the certification standards, the most stringent and prestigious is the Geneva Seal. In 1886, in order to avoid the miscellaneous appearance of watches produced in other places or countries, the Geneva Association of Watches and Clocks established the ‘Geneva Rule’. After the watch manufactured in accordance with the rule was verified, it could be engraved with ‘Eagle and Eagle’ on the plate of the movement. Key ‘shield emblem with Geneva badge logo. Due to the demanding requirements, there are very few watch factories that can meet the requirements. Only a few brands of Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, Chopard, Roger Dubuy and other brands have received the Geneva mark.
Each movement with the Geneva mark has a manufacturing workload that is 40% higher than the usual movement. It is a guarantee of origin, accuracy, reliability and watch expertise. Most watch collectors regard the Geneva mark as the biggest honor in the watch industry. These watches are not only more expensive than other watches when they leave the factory, they are even more sought after at auctions or in the second-hand market.
The Swiss Observatory Certification (COSC) is more commonly used on watches than the Geneva Seal. This certification is certified by the Swiss official observatory testing organization for the accuracy of watches. The watch movement that can pass the rigorous testing of this institution is ‘Observatory Movement’. Tissot, Mido and other brands have launched Swiss Observatory certified models. ‘Compared with the imprint of Geneva mark emphasizing exquisite craftsmanship, the observatory certification pays more attention to the accuracy of watch movement. In addition, the Geneva mark strictly restricts the production area, and the observatory certification is targeted at all Swiss watchmakers. Compared with ordinary mechanical watches, -15 seconds ~ + 30 Seconds / day error, the observatory watch is more precise, the error is -4 seconds to +6 seconds / day. At present, Rolex owns the largest number of astronomical watches (each oyster watch is an astronomical watch), Patek Philippe is a minority There are models that have both the Geneva Seal and the Observatory certified brand, ‘said Ding Zhifang, a watch reviewer. Swiss Observatory certified watch
不是 Not a good watch without a mark?
This year, the Seal of Geneva has ushered in a new revolution. Starting from June 1, the new certification standard has been fully implemented. In addition to following the previous 12 standards for movements, the new imprint introduces two standards for external parts and performance of watches. ‘Compared with the more emphasis on the production process, the innovation of the new standard lies in the provisions for the accuracy of the watch, so it has become the only comprehensive quality certification system in Switzerland.’ Ding Zhifang said.
‘Switzerland produces 20 million watches each year, and only 24,000 are certified by the Geneva Seal. Each watch is individually inspected to ensure that its functionality, water resistance and accuracy meet certification standards. Our current annual production is about 5,000 watches, each They all have the Geneva mark. Although the unmarked watch is not a good watch, the standard of the Geneva mark can almost represent the excellence of watchmaking, which also shows the brand’s insistence on traditional watchmaking. ‘Roger Du Luo Ruisi, a PR person, told reporters.
Like Roger Dubuis, in recent years, many watch factories have emphasized the Geneva mark or the Swiss Observatory certification, and use this as a selling point to enhance the brand image and watch value. Because of this, these watches with ‘imprints’ have also become targets of speculation in auctions and second-hand markets. However, many in the industry believe that this is unfair to some big brands without any certification.
Since it was only awarded to a watch produced by a watchmaker in Geneva, the “Mark of Geneva” has long played an exclusive role. Jaeger-LeCoultre, Breguet, Audemars Piguet, and many other first-line brands not produced in Geneva do not have the Geneva mark. ‘The Audemars Piguet plant is very confident in its watchmaking technology and strict auditing. The plant believes that having certification is a controversial marketing gimmick.’ Audemars Piguet said.
Those haute horlogeries originating far from Germany seem to have little interest in various ‘signs’. Glashütte Global Vice President Dieter Pachner told reporters that Glashütte did not use any mark as a certification mark. ‘The genesis of the Geneva Seal is to mark watch manufacturers in the Geneva area, and the only place where German watches are produced is in the town of Glashütte. Every watch made in Glashütte is marked with Glashütte I / SA, to prove that it was produced in the town of Glashütte, Saxony, Germany. ‘
The future of imprints
Despite the fact that brands like Cartier are striving for the Geneva mark, Patek Philippe, the most prestigious watch brand in the watch industry, has made a surprising move in the industry-announcing the abandonment of the Geneva mark and using its own mark: the Patek Philippe mark. ‘Because some watches are also stamped with Geneva, people mistakenly think that our watches are a grade with them. In fact, the gap between Patek Philippe and the Geneva mark has long since broken. We don’t want to be used as a reference.’ Teri, vice president of Patek Philippe Global -Stern said.
The establishment of an industry-recognized certification system requires strong financial and technical support. More and more power watch manufacturers have set their own standards for imprinting in order to establish their leading position in the industry. Jaeger-LeCoultre has its own Master
1000 hours of movement test, its accuracy is no less than the Swiss Observatory certification. Some watch reviewers even think that compared with the Swiss Observatory certification, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s test method is more meaningful for the stability and accuracy of the watch after leaving the factory.
萧 Chopard, Parmigiani, and Powell in Fleurier, Switzerland, have joined forces to form a Fleurier Quality Certification Association (FQFC), a certification association that ensures that products are ‘free from defects’. FQFC combines precision and craftsmanship into one. It not only has precision tests that simulate various environments, but also puts forward strict requirements on the movement craftsmanship. In addition, the certification is open to all watch companies in the world without geographical boundaries.