The ultra-thin field has fallen into a long-term melee in recent years. In the past, we were familiar with the old-fashioned movement manufacturers such as Piaget and Jaeger-LeCoultre in the ultra-thin one, but since Bulgari Finissimo entered the world, the whole situation suddenly turned into a mess. New players have been added one after another (Lian Baozhen also played in the middle). In just a few years, we saw various records related to the word ‘thin’ constantly updated, and then updated again, until No one had time to remember who the last record holder was, and the record keeping itself slowly became more and more strange.
If the competition for thinness is long over from the point of view of the practicality of dressing, now all the watch factories are fighting for nothing, a pursuit of the limit of watchmaking technology ‘because I can do it’, The relationship between this point and our consumers seems to be getting more and more distant. But to say that all this is meaningless may not be the case. Piaget, as one of the longest immersed in ultra-thin technology among these many brands, shows a different kind of philosophy from their long-term study of this path. Attitude, a clear banner has been erected under this chaotic situation.
Manual winding / hour, minute / diameter 41mm / thickness 2mm / 13 stone / vibration frequency 28,800vph / movement-integrated case structure, spiral tooth core, deconstructed barrel, bridgeless balance wheel set
In 2018, Piaget once again captured the city on the ultra-thin battlefield. The newly launched Altiplano Ultimate Concept once again took the title of the thinnest watch. It uses the same movement as the previous 900P-the case into one. Structure, the thickness of the entire watch was pressed to 2mm, which was the same as the thickness of the 9P movement alone, which grabbed a large space in the media. What is interesting is that this time Piaget published this in the form of a concept table, which means that it will not be put into mass production (at least at this stage), and this is for Piaget, who has not always played with the concept table. Quite bizarre. At the same time, however, Piaget also launched a ‘sellable’ 910P, which changed the 900P from a bracelet to a self-winding. Although its thickness is not as shocking as the Ultimate Concept, it uses a circular automatic disk. Under the premise of the overall thickness has not increased much than 900P, the point is that it will actually be put into production and sales, so some of the pragmatic media attention to this is actually above the Ultimate Concept.
Since Piaget introduced the Ultimate Concept and the 910P in the same year, we may be able to read a message that they know where the limits of ultra-thin watches are; although the Ultimate Concept is equipped with many novel technologies, but here It also contains a number of experimental properties. Instead of rushing into production, it is better to accumulate nutrients for future products, just like the 910P is a mature product that absorbs nutrients from past technologies. It can show such a stable attitude to this technology here. For me, it is the real condition for the Earl to become an ultra-thin king.
The watch case production unit under the brand has participated in the development of the movement from the beginning, and uses ultra-high-hardness high-tech alloys to enhance rigidity.
The case and substrate are combined into one
As mentioned earlier, the 900P-UC also uses the entire case-including the bottom cover, middle case and even the bezel-as a base plate structure, and almost does not use any bridge plate, most of the wheels The systems are fixed in one direction (not sandwiched between the bridge and the base plate), and a large number of ball bearings are used to replace the gemstone bearings (so the number of stones is only 13 stones). Based on such a design brand, the watch case production unit has participated in the entire development from the beginning, and the substrate of the movement, the case, also uses a high-hardness high-tech alloy. The overall rigidity issue.
Even the balance wheel bridge was cancelled
In addition to the above-mentioned concept inherited from the 900P, the new movement also invented many novel designs. First of all, even this balance group has eliminated the bridge structure (the 900P still has a balance table bridge). The balance spring and balance wheel are grasped from below, so the up and down position between the two is therefore opposite to the ordinary. In such a structure, it is difficult to install the fast and slow needles, so the adjustment part is given to the speed adjustment screw and the movable hairspring head on the balance wheel. Here you can see that the hairspring pile at the end of the hairspring is fixed in a section before and after. Among the fine-tuned arc-shaped slide rails, the cover including the hairspring pile, the balance base and the pallet fork is integrated into a disc-shaped base.
The movement adjusts the barrel structure to zero, eliminates the top cover and base of the barrel, and fixes the barrel structure from the outside, thereby reducing the thickness.
Power and winding structure (1)
The part of the barrel is also a special feature of the 900P-UC. Here, it disassembles the structure of the entire barrel: the general barrel mechanism consists of a large coil, a barrel, a barrel, and a car. Integrated, but the main body of the mainspring is removed here. After the mainspring of the mainspring is connected to the axle, it is directly exposed under the hollow mainframe, and the other end of the mainspring is connected to the outside. A circle of ring, this circle is equivalent to the outer wall of the barrel’s facade, but there is no cover plate above, and there is no base plate below.
Power and winding structure (2)
Since this ring that replaces the outer wall of the barrel is empty, there is no way to fix it from the axis of the large coiler. Therefore, a large ball bearing is set on the entire outer ring to fix the entire ring. From the power system to the winding structure, there are also clever parts. Generally, the winding is from the Jixin on the Godson to the small coiler at 90 degrees and then connected to the large coiler. However, this structure of the Godson and the small coil The cars are arranged in a vertical overlap, and the thickness will be generated here. Therefore, the 900P-UC changed the Ji car to a cylindrical spiral tooth on the Godson, so that its engagement with the small coil car can be located on the same plane, thereby reducing thickness.
Some of the 900P-UC’s new designs are quite experimental, and because of this Piaget positioned it as a concept product, so it is also a responsible approach
The distance from concept to practicality
Because the overall thickness of the watch is only 2mm, if a crown with a diameter of only 2mm is made, it is actually difficult to operate. Therefore, they designed a flat crown that can be completely embedded in the contour of the case. A special winding pen. To be fair, some of the new designs of the 900P-UC are quite experimental. For example, the balance wheel is only fixed by ball bearings from one side, which means that it does not have the shock-absorbing function of general shock-absorbing bearings. It will require more testing if it will cause problems when worn, and because of this, Piaget positions it as a concept product, which is also a responsible approach.
Altiplano Ultimate Concept
High-tech alloy material / 900P-UC manual winding movement / hour and minute display / sapphire crystal mirror / waterproof 30 meters / table diameter 44mm / limited 1 / reference price: not for sale